Jenscapes Blog

Caring for your drought tolerant Zoysia

Hi Jen,
How do I  care for my new zoysia?
Carlos

Carlos,

Water your new sod everyday for the first 10 days then every other day for 10 days.  If it rains you can skip those days.  Water as needed when you first observe wilting, and water longer and less often to promote deep rooting of the grass. Zoysia is more drought resistant and when fully established has a deep root system.  It should only be watered when showing signs of water stress.  Indication of water stress is when the blade begins to curl inward.   One of the most common mistakes of watering Zoysia is actually over watering due to it drought tolerance and overall low water requirements.

Zoysia grasses are best cut at a height of one to two inches.  Begin mowing when weeds or Zoysia becomes 3inches thick and rooted.  If you can easily pick up the sod square do not mow.  This means your zoysia has not rooted.  When mowing never cut more than half the blade length of a grass.  This can dry out sod and prevent good growth.  For ideal results mow from opposite directions every mowing to prevent regular training of grass blades in one uniform angled direction.  When weed eating the outer edges of Zoysia grasses where grass meets objects be careful not to trim to far in or deeply. The best cut height is 1 to 2 inches in full sun and 2 to 2.5inches in heavily shaded areas.

Fertilization requirements are lower for Zoysia than many other lawn grasses. Fertilize in April, June, and August.  Applications of 2-4lbs of nitrogen per 1000 sq ft annually.  Over fertilization will result in severe thatching.

Did you know that Zoysia grasses have a high silica content which the blades become tougher the longer the leaf is allowed to grow?  Trial Tests have documented that Zoysia grasses can be mown up to ten times less per season than St. Augustine grass. This can be a considerable savings in maintenance cost.

zoysia

Planting Winter Rye Seed in Houston

What up Jen,

Hope you are doing okay with all this RAIN.

Question, when is the best time for us to put out the winter rye seed and what should the watering schedule be?

Thanks,

Holzshu

Hi Thom,

Now is a fantastic time to put rye seed down since the weather just cooled down a bit.  After you put down the seed water it in and you will see it in about 3 weeks.  I love how  the bright green color contrasts with the early spring flowers, trees, and shrubs.  As for watering it doesn’t require much water.  I would water once a week.

Did you know that Annual Rye Grass Is Eco-Friendly?

Annual rye is very beneficial to problem areas that are infected with nematodes which are almost impossible to get rid of except by heavy chemical control. Natural and cheap for this infestation problem, annual ryegrass is ecologically friendly. Yearly planting of this rye grass seed ahead, behind, or with crops known to be a nematode favorite would certainly be cost effective.

I think this should be the number one grass of the new millennium.  Since it is a  non-aggressive, fast grower,  gives nutrients back to the soil,  highly digestible, beautiful color, and dies off when you need it to without chemicals.

Jen Allgood, TCLP

September blooms at TreeSearch Farms

One of my favorite garden day trips is going to TreeSearch Farms to see whats new and take pictures of what is blooming.

Houston AIA Tour October 10th -11th

If you enjoy home tours, the AIA fall tour is usually one of the best. For the second year Jenscapes is landscaping a house that is on the tour designed by Architect,  James M. Evans, founder and principal architect of Collaborative Designworks in Houston,  Texas .   The annual program provides design enthusiasts and the general public with an inside look into the world of distinctive residences in Houston. Tour participants have the opportunity to see some of the city’s latest residential projects from the inside out, meet design teams, explore housing trends, and discover design solutions that inspire unique Houston living.

Last year’s  house Jenscapes landscaped is on 4904 South Shepherd Drive,  77098

See BEFORE and AFTER photos on our Jenscapes website

Saturday and Sunday
October 10-11, 2009
12:00 to 6:00 pm
$25 ticket price for all houses/ no individual entrance fees
$20 for bike riders
For more information, please call 713.520.0155

http://www.aiahouston.org/Home_Tour.cfm

Jen, Will horse manure be good to mix with my soil ?

Horse Manure Amendment

Good question Wilson,

A major concern about horse manure is that it can cause a nitrogen deficiency when added to soils, leading to stunted, yellowed crops if not composted.  It is not the manure that stunts the crops it is the sawdust or wood shavings.

If the manure has been sitting around for a year, it is perfectly safe to use. It has in effect been composted.  If you are interested in making a compost pile for your manure see link . http://www.manuremaiden.com/compost-systems.php Many people pay a lot of money to buy horse manure for their gardens and you’re lucky enough to have it there giving you the opportunity for composting horse manure for your own needs.

I like to purchase my compost in bulk from Natures Way Resources and Landscaper’s Pride. You can purchase it bagged from Wabash.   It is important to purchase from a reputable dealer since most vendors do not do the extra steps as it cost money and they do not care about the results or problems landscapers and gardeners experience.

Lost in My Oleanders

Hi Jen, What to do what to do. I planted some oleanders last year and they are thriving. I read somewhere that they should be cut back in late August or early September. What is the best way to prune these? I read something about cutting below the three leaves! What and how do you determine that? Lost in my oleanders!!! Please help

Yolanda Ramirez

Hi Yolanda,

Oleanders are evergreen shrubs that can be pruned basically anytime of the year. The best time is when they are not in bloom.  Cut back to desired height and let the spring flush it with new growth and produce the desired look.  Some say the oleander is pruned after blooming and should be pruned by the end of August or early September to give any new growth sufficient time to harden off before winter. Houston has very mild winters so this probably doesn’t matter as much. I would only prune your oleanders if you think they are just overgrown and ugly otherwise little pruning is required to maintain their natural shape.A rule of thumb is not to prune more than a third of the existing foliage and to carefully prune stems so that removal is evenly distributed for a balanced look.

By cutting back just above the leaf nodes of the Oleander it will make your shrub very full.   This is the section where three leaves come out of the branch. By cutting it here, you will be forcing new branching at each of the leaf nodes (joints). Three new branches will grow from the section that once had three leaves. By doing this, it will increase the branch threefold.

One thing to note: all parts of oleanders are highly poisonous. I usually wear long sleeves and gloves to prune mine back. Even the woody parts are poisonous, so don’t go putting your hand in your mouth.

My Papaya tree is oozing?

Hey Jen,

Do you know what the little clear dots are on my Papaya?  And do you know when the fruit will be ready for harvest?

Jules, Houston, Texas

   

Hi Jules,

I think the oozing from the Papaya are sugars produced by the plant. It is probably a normal phenomenon caused by heat, humidity or some other climactic pressure.

Heidi Sheesley from TreeSearch Farms said that the fruit would begin to turn yellow then (she does not have experience this is an assumption) it could be harvested and ripened inside like an avocado.

Mealybugs on my Hibiscus!!!

Jen,
Do you know what this is on my Hibiscus?  They are all over the neck of the flowers with a white web looking thing. It looks like there are insects in the web. Yuck!  Hopefully you can tell from the pic.

A. Freeman
Bellaire, Texas

Looks like you have a case of Mealybugs. They have been very prevalent this year. Please see below the recommended spray for mealybugs:

In a one-quart spray bottle, mix …
- 1 tablespoon of neem oil
- ¼ to ½ cup of rubbing alcohol (use up to ½ cup when dealing with mealybugs)
- 3-4 drops of orange oil
-5-6 drops of dish soap
Then fill the rest with water

This has to be sprayed directly on the mealybugs.  It is best to get as little on the leaves as possible because it does have some danger of phytotoxicity.  Since mealybugs like to be on the leaf axils and stems,  move the leaves and spray the little beasts directly.

Make absolutely sure that you do not spray this is full sun.  If the plant is in the ground in full sun, wait until evening (like after 6), and then to rinse the plant off in the morning.

May need more than one application.
The Neem Oil and the Citris Oil can be purchased at Wabash in the Heights.

Fall Gardening Treasures

Brugmansia

Heidi Sheesley is the owner of Treesearch Farms .  TreeSearch Farms is a  wholesale nursery and grower that supplies most of the plants sold at local Master Gardener sales, Houston landscapers, and supplies plants to nurseries such as Buchanans,  Arbor Gate , and the Houston Annual Plant and Bulb Mart.

Heidi is well known for educating the public, due to her vast knowledge of growing Texas natives. She will be discussing plants that are well suited to our local climate and soils.

All of the plants covered in the program will be available at the Sugar Land Garden Club’s 11th Annual Garden Art and Plant Sale. You do not have to belong to the club to purchase plants or to hear Heidi’s interesting lecture on September 15^th @ 10am.

http://www.sugarlandgardenclub.org/

Certified Professional Landscaper

Jen Allgood has earned the designation Texas Certified Nursery Professional, awarded by the Texas Nursery & Landscape Association. This peer reviewed certification verifies that an individual has prepared through independent study and passed a four-hour exam covering the essential components of knowledge of a retail nursery professional.

 The exam includes information about botany, plant selection and maintenance, design, pest and disease management, and sustainable urban agricultural practices. 

A TNLA Certified Nursery Professional must continue to keep current on information by earning continuing education credits to remain certified.  When you buy products and services, look for the logo of a TNLA Certified Professional, the elite of the industry who are committed to excellence!